![]() ![]() Third Variation firing pin moved to hammer-1934įourth Variation three inch barrel was offered-1935įifth Variation two patent dates marked on cylinder (before there was only one)-1936 (after 3-17)-1937 Second Variation adjustable front sight-1933 (after 4-18-1933). Starting in 1940 letter codes were used.Įarly production until about 1933 the letter code "D" was used to denote double action.įirst Variation round heavy weight ribbed barrel with Blade non-adjustable front sight -1932- to before April 18,1933 Serial numbered in its own series from 01 up to at least 89761 by the end of 1939. Cylinder release is long pivoting lever on right side of frame (there are two different version of this). Large frame double action top break revolver Caliber 22 rimfire (short, long & long rifle) cylinder capacity 9 rounds, 22 Winchester Rim Fire (WRF)cylinder capacity 7 rounds Safety rim cylinder blue finish only barrel length 6 inches (ribbed) Automatic cylinder stop Sights: rear adjustable for windage only, Three different front sights used, full Blade, Partridge type & Partridge type pinned to barrel top rib, all non-adjustable Finger rest trigger guard One piece oversized checkered Walnut grips (birds head grip frame shape, Rice frame) frame mounted firing pin, hammer face is flat. SPORTSMAN DOUBLE ACTION MODEL 999 LARGE FRAME TOP BREAK. In the case of old firearms, cleaning should be limited to preventing more rust by wiping it with an oily cloth.Click to expand.Here are some details posted long ago by Bill Goforth on another forum (although there's nothing on the Eureka and single-action Models 196 & 199): When one removes such after it has happened, it does not fool an expert, and it does devalue the item. Old things typically take on a patina or have a typical deterioration pattern. When you try to make something look better by cleaning or restoring it you often devalue it significantly. With old, collectible things one is ill advised to do any cleaning beyond what would have been normal daily maintenance. This has been said many times before, but is worth repeating. Since Evapo-Rust is advertised to remove the Iron from iron oxides and turn it into a water soluble Iron Sulphate it will likely remove any bluing as well as red rust. A uniform coating of dense ferric oxide helps to prevent the formation of the undesirable, porous, crumbly red rust or ferrous oxide. The bluing rust is black ferric oxide rather than red ferrous oxide. Second, firearms bluing (or browning) is actually a controlled rusting process. If you remove it all, you leave noticeable pits. Often the apparent surface rust that has been allowed to grow on firearms has actually eaten somewhat deeply into (below) the surface of the steel. First, this material will eat all of the rust out and leave pitting behind. I see two likely problems when used on firearms. The manufacturer's info states that it works by freeing the Iron from rust (ferrous oxide for red ruist) and then turning the free iron into a water soluble Iron Sulfate. I do not think that one would want to put this material on any blued steel. I have just read Evapo-Rust's webpage material that explains how it works, chemically. I am somewhat familiar with the use of Phosphoric acid and Hot Sulfuric acid for dissolving rust and other metal oxides. It is likely a good product for its intended uses that do not likely include rust removal from valuavle firearms. ![]() Obviously, I have not tried or used it, yet. I was unaware of this product until just now. Relative to StephenCD's remark and question about a product called "Evapo-Rust": ![]()
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